Practical Common Sense Tips

• Regard waders not as a luxury but as a necessity.
• By allowing perspiration to escape, breathable waders will keep you dryer on the inside.
• Boot foot waders are less versatile than stocking foot waders .
• The general rule of thumb is to get the lightest, most breathable wader you can find.
• Neoprene waders can be a good choice if you are fishing in very cold weather.
• The right size is an important consideration to staying comfortable in the current.
• Make sure all the seams are carefully sewn and taped.
• An older pair of waders can be checked in two ways - insert a flashlight inside in a dark room.  A better way is to kneel in a bathtube full of water wearing the waders.
• Before you hang your waders up to dry, it's a good idea to wash them down with soapy water before rinsing them off.
• Waders that fit your body more snugly are less resistent to the current, so you expend less effort to hold yourself in place.
• In warmer weather you can undo the straps of your chest wader and roll them down to your waist.

By Marshall Hoffman

According to an old proverb; “the worst day fishing is better than the best day working.” Personally, I subscribe to that philosophy. In making that bad day a better day, however, being equipped with the right wader is crucial.

Here are some common sense tips to keep in mind when shopping for a wader that will keep you warm and dry and permit you to move easily in the current.

• Of uppermost consideration is the issue of breathability. Neoprene is a rubber like material that is highly effective in keeping out the cold. Be aware that it is equally effective in retaining perspiration. When you are working hard to maneuver into just the right spot, this can be an important consideration.
• GORE-TEX fabric is the most efficient breathable material. The microscopic pores prevent moisture from getting in, while at the same time, allowing perspiration to escape. Whether fishing in winter or summer conditions, many claim that these breathable waders provide the highest degree of comfort.
• Another important factor is fit. Think of waders as a second skin, which moves with you without rubbing. A case in point; waders which are made with women in mind are lighter and more flattering while providing a high level of durability. Striking a good balance between breathability and durability is an important consideration in how your waders will perform in the water. I tend to tip the scale in the direction of toughness, preferring multi layered waders of 3-5 ply.
• As a general rule of thumb, however, pick the lightest wader you can find that will hold up to the conditions you will encounter.
• Here is something that allows for more effortless movement, which few people think about. Waders with articulated knee joints allow for more flexibility than simple straight legged designs. Extra padding in the knees and the seat are also a sign of quality.
• A do it yourself repair kit is always handy when it comes to minor leaks. It makes the sealing process simple. In the event that something more serious happens, choose a manufacturer that promises rapid repairs so you can soon be out on your favorite stream. In the rare instance that a manufacturing defect occurs, research a company which stands behind their products with a warranty that extends through the life of the wader.
• In doing your research, does the company you are considering have a history of innovation and a policy of thoroughly testing their products before they arrive at your local retail store? Remember, most waders today are imported from China, Korea and other places. While many of these imports are quality products, it pays to exercise due diligence.
• Some other tips:
• Does your wader come with a built in belt that will keep them from ballooning-up in case of a slip.
• Is the chest wader easy to fold down and use as a waist wader in warmer weather.
• Are the suspenders adjustable and easy to use?
• Are the gravel guards effective in keeping sand and pebbles out of your boots?
• This is by no means a deal breaker but an attention to detail that reflects quality craftsmanship. On stocking foot waders are the neoprene feet fitted for the right and the left.
• Is there a water tight zippered pouch in which you can store car keys, camera etc.
• These are some common sense considerations to keep in mind when you get ready to choose a pair of waders.

• One of the most important considerations is to match the flyrod to  the line. 
• When selecting a flyrod pay special attention to the length.  As a general rule of thumb 8 feet is a good length when fishing in narrow places or with overhanging limbs.  It seems contradictory but shorter rods are often preferred for open water and longer casts.
• One should also consider the number of pieces for more convenient storage.
• Make sure the rod has enough guides to keep the line from sagging.  The bottom and top guides receive the most friction and therefore wear faster.  They need to be made of wear resistant materials.
• As a general rule of thumb, in choosing an ultra light to heavy action pole, the lighter the fish the lighter the rod action.  If you do a lot of trolling you may need a little heavier action.
• Next to weight and length, the degree of flexibility is an important factor in making the right choice.  Fiberglass tends to be more flexible than graphite.  Perhaps bamboo is the most flexible.  In both casting and playing the fish, flexibility is of paramount importance.  Remember, in fly casting the pole does most of the work.  Therefore, a pole that has more spring to it, supplies more energy to shoot the fly line out a farther distance. 
• Next to the right lure and proper technique, the rod is a vital factor in setting the hook and landing the fish.

By Marshall Hoffman 

An avid angler’s fly rod becomes something more than a flexible pole.  Somehow it morphs into a close companion acquiring a personality all its own.  This mysterious transformation is hard to explain to one who is not a passionate practitioner of the art of angling. 

For this article I will try to put aside my passion and discuss in a logical manner some common sense tips to keep in mind when shopping for a fly rod. 

In a nutshell we could condense the essential features of a fly rod down to four elements, weight, action, length and material.

The weight of your rod depends on the size of the fish.  For panfish and other small species you would pick a 1-3 weight.  For larger panfish and smaller trout you could choose a 4 weight.  For medium trout and smaller bass consider a weight 5-6.  The most popular all around rods are in this category.  For Salmon, Steelhead, large trout and bass a 7-8 weight would be preferable.  For large Salmon, Tarpon and other large saltwater species consider something in the 9-14 weight class.

The three main classifications used to describe a fly rod’s action are fast, medium and slow. Fast action means that most of the rod is inflexible except near the tip. It permits a longer cast especially in the wind. Medium action rods are flexible further down toward the middle. Slow action rods are very flexible sometimes down to the grip.  They are the best for fishing small creeks. They don’t cast very far but  they absorb the shock so that your chances of snapping off the fly are reduced. In order to judge the action of a rod one must have hands on experience with it.  The various actions are all based on the same concept, how much the rod bends when casting.

The most common rod lengths are between 8-10 feet. Shorter rods are better where the surrounding environment would make casting a longer rod more difficult due to overhanging vegetation. Longer rods are common place when fishing out of a float tube. One can get more distance with a longer rod, and the extra length helps to keep the fly off the water on the backcast.

As much as I love my split bamboo pole, I have retired it to a place of honor because it just can’t perform as well as fiberglass or graphite.  In general, fiberglass tends to be more flexible than graphite. In both casting and playing the fish, flexibility is of paramount importance.  Remember, in fly casting the pole does most of the work rather than the forward thrust of the arm. Therefore, a pole that has more spring to it supplies additional energy to shot the line out a farther distance.

Some other quick considerations:

One should pay attention to the number of pieces for more convenient storage.

To avoid damage to the rod tip, keep your rod in a sturdy case.

Make sure the rod has enough guides to keep the line from sagging.  The bottom and top guides receive the most friction and therefore wear faster.  They need to have a zirconium insert, which is harder and more resistant.

Lastly don’t forget to try the grip to see if it feels comfortable in your hand.

When you find that perfect rod and it feels just right in your hand; be careful you may develop a fond affection for it.

• A fish finder is your underwater eyes.  It's not a camera but like radar it shows blips when fish are in the finders cone of detection.
• The 4 basic parts are a transmitter, a transducer, a receiver and a display screen.
• Electrical signals are sent from the transmitter.  The transducer converts these impulses into sound waves which work like sonar.  As the sound travels through the water it bounces back from the bottom giving you a general idea of the contour.  If those sound waves bounce off a fish it shows on the screen.  This is a simple, non technical explanation, which presents the general idea.
• Fish finders can not, of course, lead you to fish they can only signal you when fish are in a limited area under and around your boat.
• Whether trolling or still fishing, they can be useful in bringing you in with more than a sunburn.

By Tony White

If you are looking to purchase a fish finder then your choice is going to be heavily dictated by one thing, and that is price. Once you establish what you are willing to spend on a fish finder, you can start looking at which types of models are within that price range, and what types of features you will be benefitting from.

Something that you need to establish from the outset is that out of the various features that you find on fish finders, some will actually assist you in catching more fish, while others are sheer gimmick. If you are a beginner then the advice here would definitely be to opt for one of the more simple fish finder units that are on the market – you can move onto something more advanced when you become a bit more seasoned and a bit more aware of what you are doing. Besides, certain features on a more advanced fish finder unit will only make sense to you when you have the sound aggregate knowledge that only experience affords you. It makes no sense to pay for an expensive fish finder unit outright, when you are not going to benefit from any of its more advanced features.

A feature that dictates the price of a fish finder is the screen. Whilst a more economical unit will have an LCD (liquid crystal display) screen, more costly finders have CRT (cathode ray tube) screens. Whilst CRT screens are the better of the two, they require far more power and add nothing to a fish finder’s ability to locate fish. Therefore, if you can afford the outlay and the cost of running it, then by all means get a fish finder with a CHT screen, but as a beginner or an average weekend fisher an LCD unit will more than suffice.

Also important, in terms of the screen, is finding a unit whose screen is visible in direct sunlight. Believe it or not, there are units out there that are extremely tricky to see in direct sunlight, which is surprising, given the fact that a fish finder is a device that is specifically for outdoor use. One tip, though, should you opt for an economy finder with a screen that is affected by sunlight, is to purchase light-reflecting film. This is available online and in specialist technology/electrical appliance stores, and is made specifically for digital screens. It will stop sunlight from impeding your view of the device’s screen to such an extent.

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, you must know what type of fishing you are going to do, because this will dictate the frequency of the fish finder that you choose. Frequency is measured in kHz, and whilst high frequency finders tend to work better for smaller bodies of water, lower frequency finders tend to work better in larger bodies of water. So before you buy a unit, make sure you know where it is that you are going to be doing the majority of your fishing. Most people tend to start with a medium-frequency fish finder, so that they get good all-round usage. When you have been fishing for a while, and you have settled into a certain type of fishing, such as river fishing, for instance, or sea fishing, then you can upgrade to a unit with a frequency that is set specifically for the size of bodies of water that you fish.

• There are 3 basic types of fly fishing line:
• Level line-is somewhat less expensive but for learners, it tends to be a little more difficult to cast.  Because it is not tapered in front, often it does not allow the fly to softly lite on the water.  For those who want a more delicate presentation of the fly, it might not be the best choice.
• Weight forward line-allows for longer casting because more of the weight is up front.  The tapered section is thinner at the back and therefore slides through the guides with less friction.
• Double taper line-tapered in the front it allows the fly to more delicately kiss the water in a more natural way.
• The size of the fish as well as the depth of water are important considerations in choosing the best line.  If the fish are not rising and feeding on the surface, one may need to pick a line that has more sinking properties.

• The bag shape is an important factor.  A rectangular shaped bag offers more roominess.  It can be unzipped and used as a comforter. 
• On the other hand a mummy shaped bag conforms to the contour of the body and is therefore more thermally efficient.  It offers the least amount of bag for the most amount of warmth.
• If your bag has a hood, cinch it up for additional warmth while sleeping.
• When in doubt, purchase a bag with more warmth than you think you will need.  You can always unzip it for ventilation.
• It is often helpful to put a pad or a mat beneath your bag.  It not only cushions, it insulates your body from the cold surface beneath you.  The sleeping bag traps the air warmed by your body and the pad buffers you from the cold ground.  Even more ideal is a cot, which provides space between you and the cold ground.
• Before going to bed, if possible, change into a new set of clothes which are completely dry and clean.   Dry cleaning can injure your bag.  It is usually better to wash it in cold water and let it air dry.
• When storing your bag for extended periods of time it is better not to leave it compressed in a stuff sack.  Spread it out flat or leave it hanging in the closet.
• Sometimes allergies are a factor and non allergenic materials need to be considered.
• The best way to stuff your sleeping bag is to grab the top of the stuff sack with one hand, place the bottom of the stuff sack between your feet. Grab the foot of the sleeping bag with your extra hand and stuff it into the bottom of the sack. Grab the next section higher up and continue stuffing until the bag is all the way in.
• Your first priority before you pitch your tent or set out your sleeping bag is to find a site that is generally flat and smooth.

For camping equipment to last long, it should be handled well. Camping stoves are no different. By taking care of your stove, you are guaranteed to enjoy campfires and cookouts for a long time. By following these maintenance tips, your camping stove is guaranteed to last.

• Get yourself acquainted with the camping stove.
• Before using your stove, be sure that you have read the user’s manual from start to finish. People usually ignore manuals and prefer to assemble equipments by themselves. But oftentimes not reading user’s manuals could result to improper usage and incorrect assembly of equipments. By following the correct procedures in setting up and using the stove, you will be able to operate the equipment fully and properly.
• Test-drive your stove.
• Before setting off somewhere far from civilization, be sure that you have already learned how to use your camping stove. Before the big day, experiment with your stove, get to know it well and get used to it. Make sure it functions okay and does what it’s supposed to do. This way you can protect yourself being beset with stove problems while you’re in the wilderness.
• Use the appropriate fuel.
• Always ask about the fuel to be used for the stove. Some of them can be used with different types, while others work only with a certain type of fuel. It is possible that specific types of fuel can affect the life of your stove or clog it up. The different types of fuel are kerosene, diesel fuel, white or unleaded gasoline, Coleman fuel, propane, butane and denatured alcohol. To be sure, choose a multi-fuel stove.
• Fresh fuel is better.
• When you first purchased your camping stove, it was free from clogs. It should stay that way. For your stove to remain unclogged, make sure you use only fresh fuel. Old fuel, most especially the one stored in the tank, breaks down and causes impurities that bung up your stove. Also, using old fuel is dangerous since it might be contaminated.
• Filter while filling fuel tank.Use a fuel funnel with filter while filling the fuel canister of your camping stove. This way water and debris won’t get into the fuel line of your stove and clog it up. In addition, when opening and closing your fuel canister, do it in such a way that obstructions do not enter it. This is to prevent your stove from clogging up.
• Keep your stove spotless.
• Make sure that you clean your stove properly after every use. Wipe it with warm water and dishwashing soap and then dry it before storing. Cleaning your stove after using it will prevent buildup in the burners and make the stove more fuel-efficient, corrosion-free and rust-free.
• Store your stove safely.
• Keep your stove where it should be. When you’re on a camping trip, put your stove and fuel away from fuel. Some stoves come with padded sacks or special cases just for this. When you’re not out camping, make sure that your stove and fuel are stowed separately.
• Your cooking exploits at camp can be made more fun and enjoyable if you have a functional camping stove. By caring for your stove, you can prolong its life and keep it working efficiently.

"Once in a while we take a trophy fish on a fly and release it withyout getting a picture, or even an accurate idea of its size.  The next time you hook such a fish, lay it gently in the shallows and measure it with your leader, the fly still attached.  Then cut the leader at exactly the fish's length.  Over the years you will build a collection of chewed flies with various lengths of leader attached, each with a story behind it, to be preserved forever in a display case...."  Greg Roberts, August 1979, quoted in The Trout Fisher's Almanac, p. 276. 

Through the years the leaders will not grow longer but the stories behind each one will.  The idea just occurs: you could arrange those leaders, each a little longer and claim (though no one would believe you) that they are all from catching the same fish year after year.  Then pointing to the mounted trophy you could say: "and there he is, all grown up!"

Marshall Hoffman

• If you use a barbed hook crimp down the barb with pliars so that it can be extracted with less tearing.  There is a school of thought that barbless hooks sink in deeper with less pressure resulting in fewer missed strikes.  Perhaps more fish will escape the hook during the battle but that will be offset by offset by more successful strikes.
• Use reasonably stout tackle that allows you to sufficiently play the fish without taking so long as to completely exhaust it and diminish its chance of survival.
• Use a soft mesh landing net that is less likely to injure scales and takes less time to release.
• When releasing try not to squeeze or grab it by the gills for a better grip.
• Hold the trout by the tail with one hand and the other underneath.  With its face into the current, hold it there until it regains its strength and tries to wiggle out of your grasp.  That's a good sign that it is ready to go swim away under its own power.
• Take pleasure that it is swimming off to one day become a trophy trout.

• Setting  the drag mechanism on your real to the right tension, enables you to set the hook with the necessary force without snapping the line.
• When a fish is on, the drag provides a smooth, persistent, sturdy resistence to the pull of the line which tires the fish out faster without exceeding the breaking test of the line.
• Test the drag before you begin your trip to make sure it provide a smooth and even resistence without hitches or jerks. 
• As a rule of thumb set the tension level to about one fourth to one third of the lines breaking strength.  For a ten pound test line this would be approximately three pounds.  Specific conditions, such as the size of the fish you might encounter, will require adjustments. 
• Avoid making drag adjustments while fighting the fish.
• Remember that the angle of the rod also exerts pressure on the fish so hold your rod tip up and let it work for you.  An exception to that is when a heavy fish is surging.  Instead of lifting the rod to stop the fish and popping the line; a better technique is to lower the rod tip and let the fish fight against the drag only.
• In summary, know exactly where you drag is set and how much pressure you can apply before the big one strikes.

• 10. Plan your outing so you can arrive at your site and set up camp before dark.  Tripping on those tent poles in the dark is no fun.
• 9.  Before you start pounding stakes, survey the area for such things as bee-hives, poison ivy, low areas that rain water can quickly fill up, etc.
• 8.  Take plenty of water along.  Drinking water from a stream without first boiling it is taking an unnecessary risk.
• 7.  Don't eat berries and such off the plants or mushrooms off the ground.  You may think you recognize  the safe ones and be surprised.
• 6.  Clean up all traces of food so as not to attract critters small or large.  It is no fun to have a bear rip off the front door of your car trying to get to a candy bar.
• 5.  Heed the wildlife signs and prepare for an unexpected visitor.
• 4   Be considerate of others by keeping the noise down, especially at night.
• 3. Travel light and prioritize everything into most essential, helpful but not essential and can get along fine without it.
• 2.  Be considerate and keep the noise level down especially at night.  Maybe a ghost story which sets the kids screaming with terror and some camp songs around the fire pit will suffice.
• 1. Above all, stretch out and relax without the tecnological distractions of ringing phones, instant texts etc.  Just getting away from civilization for a few days is its own reward.

When it comes to the wed-lock of marital bliss, we don’t want a slip knot but one that will hold. We might use that as a metaphor for the ardent angler. Nothing is so frustrating as to lose that trophy catch because of a defective knot. Let’s do some practice tying, so get yourself some monofilament line, 6 lb. test to 10 lb. test will be easier to work with than a very light 2 lb. test. I find that finger nail clippers are a useful tool in trimming up loose ends and cutting monofilament.  Another good tool is a hook puller.  Something like a spoon handle with a hole on the end.  You can grasp it, put the hook through the hole and pull it through without sticking your finger on the hook.  Another little trick is to bury the sharp point of the hook in a cork.  That gives you something to grasp without pricking your finger.  If you find it difficult at first handling monofilament line try using an old shoe string. Then, when you get the hang of it, you can graduate to 2 and 4 lb. test.  You may also find that fly line is easier to practice with than monofilament. 

Let's pause here and have a little lesson on nomenclature.  The "tag end", sometimes called "the working end" is that part of the line which is used to make the knot.  The "standing" part of the line is that which comes from the reel.  You wrap the tag end around the standing end to make the knot.  Enough of vocabulary.

We are going to practice 5 basic knots. A knot that is useful in connecting the backup line to the reel spool. The next section is a knot that works well in connecting the backup with the fly line. The 3rd is a knot which is effective in tying the fly line to the leader. The next connection is the leader to the tippet. Finally, choosing a knot which clinches the tippet to the lure, or a swivel which snaps on to the lure. Let’s begin at the lure and work back to the reel.

The Palomar is the knot I prefer in tying the tippet to the fly. It is the most simple to tie. Even a person with clumsy, uncoordinated fingers can do it. After you have practiced it several times you will be able to tie it even in subdued light, not by sight but by feel. Are you ready? Because I am left handed; take the lure in your left hand and the end of the line that goes toward the reel, between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand. Thread the line through the eye of the lure about 6 inches. Bend it around and thread it back through from the other direction. Allow enough line on each side to work with. Try twisting the line between your thumb and fore finger, so that it is easier to work with. These twists however, will weaken your line to some degree.  So if you can handle the line without twisting, it is better.  Notice that the lure hanging down from the doubled line is free to slip from side to side like in a sling. Bring your hands toward one another until you form a loop above the lure. Some like to make a double loop to strengthen the connection.  I have never found that this was necessary. Make a simple overhand, or granny knot, by bringing the left side of the line up and over and through the loop,  which is pinched between your fingers. Tighten that down a little so the loop becomes smaller. Then all you do is, take the fly and bring it through the loop that was formed when you passed the line through the eye of the lure a second time in the opposite direction. Put a little saliva on it and cinch it down. Notice it holds tight without slipping and forms a knot small enough so that it doesn’t affect the action of the lure as you retrieve it. Repeat that 4 or 5 times and you will master the Palomar.  For a video demonstration of tying this knot click on the video page of this web sight and you will see it being tied by an expert.

Some prefer to use a Clinch knot, rather than the Palomar, to connect the line to the lure. Thread the line through the eye and bring it through 4 or 5 inches so you will have enough line to work with. Some prefer to make a loop and bring the end of the line through the eye a second time to strengthen the connection. Now twist the end of the tag line around the standing line 3 or 4 times. Some like to do this by twisting the fly rather than wrapping the line around itself. When you see the video you will discover a nifty way of making these t wists with your finger through the loop.  Take the end of the line and bring it through the loop that was formed between the eye and the first twist. Don’t take it through the eye again but through the loop outside of it. If you want to do the Improved Clinch knot bring the end of the line which has just been threaded through the first loop and bring it up through the 2nd loop that was formed as you turned the line toward the lure to put it through the first loop. This version of the Clinch knot will help add to its strength. There are other knots which are effective in attaching the line to the lure but these are the two which I prefer.  For a visual demonstration go to the video page on this website.

We are making good progress, now we are ready to attach the tippet to the leader. The knot I prefer for that is the Surgeon’s knot. There are others but this is the one I find easiest to tie. Take the 2 ends, one leading back toward the reel and the other leading toward the lure and bring them parallel with each other with their ends equal to one anotherl. Again you might find it helpful to twist the lines to make them easier to work with although parallel lines are stronger than twisted one. Now bring your hands together and form a loop. Some prefer a double or even a triple loop. I find a double loop is strong enough for me. Pinch the double loop between your thumb and forefinger. Then take the two equal ends and bring them through the loops. Wrap them up and around the loops 2 or 3 times. Using the spittle again, apply some lubrication. When you pull on the ends they will form a compact knot which can slip easily through the guides of your pole without hanging up. That knot is very helpful in showing where the leader stops and the tippet begins. You’re tippet will get shorter and shorter as you remove one fly and tie on another. You won’t have to shorten the leader very much because you can snip it right where the leader starts and tie on another appropriate length of tippet.  For a demonstration, again go to the video page.

O.K., now we can practice  a knot  which is effective in connecting the leader with the thicker fly line.  Sometimes this is called the blood or barrell knot.  Be careful with this one. It can be a frustrating knot to tie and you don’t want to lose your religion over it (if you get my drift).  Her's a more simple and less frustrating way that is called an Albright knot.  Make a loop in the line with the thicker diameter.  Now take the thinner line and bring it through the loop either over or under it.  Pull it through the loop about 8 inches.  Now change hands and hold the 3 lines b etween your thumb and index finger.  Wrap the thinner line around the thicker 5 or 6 times.  Then bring the tag end of the thinner line back through the loop the same way you entered it.  If you came up from the bottom take it down through the loop in the same way.  Now take the lines and pull them in opposite directions.  Notice how the lighter line cinches down on the heavier.  The harder you pull the more it takes hold making a small barell knot which is not bulky and therefore passes through the smaller eyes of your pole easier.   See a demonstration on the video page.

Rather than using the double half hitch to make a loop you can tie what is called the Perfection Loop.  It holds like an anchor and will not slip.  Rather than trying to describe that one, I think I will again refer you to the video.

There are a number of possibilities to use in attaching the fly line to the backup line. Personally, I prefer the Albright because it is flat  and permits the line to go through the guides with less friction. 

That brings us to our last knot.  In attaching the backup to the reel spool.  A simple slip knot should suffice.  Keeping it simple, just put the end of the backup line around the reel once or twice.  Like you were tying your shoes, make an overhand knot and bring the tag end up and make another over hand like you would do with a figure 8.  Tighten it down and you are in business.  If you prefer a knot that slips easier, you can use an "arbor knot." Wrap the back up line around the "arbor" or reel spool.  Tie it down with an overhand like you were tying your shoe.  Above that make an overhand and as close as possible make another over hand.  As you pull on the standing line the two overhand knots will jam down on each other making a slip knot. Again see the video for a demonstration.

So, now the back up line is connected to the reel spool, the end of the back up line is tyed to the fly line with an Albright, the fly line to the leader also with an Albright (or a surgeon's knot if you prefer), the leader to the tippet with a surgeon's knot and the tippet to the lure with a Palomar or a clinch knot.  You are in business.  There are a lot of other knots you can learn to tie that you might like better than these.  Go to  it champ!

There will be times when you will want a dropper line coming off from your main line.  There is a knot that enables the secondary line to come off in a 45 degree angle so the two lines don't get tangled.  I find that a surgeon's loop works well enough.  Take a section of the standing line and double it.  Make a loop in the doubled line.  You might make a second loop for extra strength.  Pinching the two loops bring the end of the double line through the two loops once or twice.  Pull it tight and you have a secure surgeon's loop that will not slip to which you can attach another loop. 

Before you leave, pick up your diploma at the door.  And don't forget to turn in your cap and gown. 

"Want to know the exact types and sizes of the insects currently hatching along your favorite trout stream?  Hang some old-fashioned fly paper from a streamside tree limb in mid-afternoon and inspect it the next morning.  The strategy may sound primitive, but unless the weather changes drastically overnight, you'll be all set to match the hatch."  John Swinton, May 1995.

By Marshall Hoffma n

 When rigging a trout line there are four main rules which one should strictly adhere to.

The first essential is to use a line that is as light as possible for the size of fish you are angling for. Keep your line in the range of 2 – 6 pound test, no heavier, unless you are going for 8 pound Salmon.

The second essential is to utilize small hooks, somewhere in the range of size 6 – 8. The trick is to present that hook as invisible as possible, therefore, the smaller the better.

Thirdly, don’t forget to lubricate your knots with a little saliva. It may be necessary to tie up to 4 knots, connecting the fly fishing line to the backup line, the fishing line with the leader, the leader to the tippet and the tippet to the fly. Monofilament line tends to weaken in strength when a knot is tied in it. The friction that occurs when the dry line is pulled tight weakens it. To remedy this, apply a little saliva to the knot before tightening it.

Fourthly, match your bait to the natural forage. For instance, if you see a one inch grasshopper along the bank or a one inch minnow in the water, don’t use trout bait which greatly exceeds that in size. This may mean pinching your night crawler in half to bring it in line with what you see floating on the current.

By Neville Levy

One of the most enjoyable parts of fly fishing could be tying your own flies. While they are readily available for sale pre-made in many stores, when you take the time to tie your own, you can make the flies look even more realistic than those you can buy in a store.

Fly tying isn’t as difficult as it might first seem. You need to have some basic tools such as a fly vice, scissors, pliers, and thread. The equipment you use can make all the difference in quality work and shoddy work. The goal is to make your flies look as identical to a fish’s food source as is humanly possible. You can find supplies for tying in various places.

Besides the vice, scissors, and pliers, you will want to have on hand the following items:

* Hooks of various shapes and sizes

* Different colors and gauges of thread

* Fur from animals such as mink or fox

* Feathers from pheasants and peacocks

* Craft cement

Precision is the key to accurate fly tying. You should start out with a picture of the fly you are trying to replicate. You can find pictures of may flies, caddis flies, and other natural food sources in many places on the Internet. Once you have a picture, just get materials that will mimic the look and try to duplicate it. Start out by wrapping thread around your hook and then add fur and feathers as you go securely tying them to the hook. As you go, you will continue to add materials until you achieve the look you are going for.

Of course, there’s a little more to it than that, but that is the general idea. You can take classes on how to tie your own flies and you can even find instructional videos online. When you start taking an interest in fly fishing, it’s best to stick with the pre-made flies, but as you gain more experience, you will want to start experimenting around with different lures to bring the fish to your line.

Tying your own flies can be a great way to bring you more and more into the fly fishing experience. It certainly isn’t for everyone as you need to have a lot of patience when you are tying flies. It doesn’t always come easy, but once you learn the basic techniques, you will probably find a new hobby that gives you some great joy!

Looking for a tent? Let us offer you some helpful hint to make your shopping experience easier. After all you want to stay dry and keep those pesky bugs out as much as possible. Hopefully after reading through this information you will be able to make a better decision on what you need.

First you want to choose the tent that suits your style. It is important to determine what your needs are. Ask yourself some simple questions. Are you going to be using this tent for backpacking or family camping? How many people would you like to sleep in it? What is the climate and conditions in your area? For a backpacking tent you want to minimize weight as much as possible without sacrificing safety or comfort. In dry conditions a tent with mesh for it to breath can be a great choice as they are light and do not take up much space on your pack. In wet and colder conditions a tent with less mesh is more suitable. If you are not concerned with weight you will find numerous tents that are very good for family camping that are more spacious.

There are many types of tents that you can choose from. There are shelters and bivy sacks that are designed for the minimalist. These are great for someone who camps solo and is looking for the lightest weight possible. 3-season tents are by far the most popular tents you will find on the market. 3-season tents are great in mild conditions and give great ventilation as well as keep the rain off when set up with the rain fly. For harsher conditions the 4-season tent is the best choice. 4-season tents are designed to withstand high winds and snowy conditions.

Depending on your needs you can look for some features in tents that will make your experience a better one. Some of these features include, vestibules for extra space to keep your gear dry outside the tent, dual doors to make things easier getting in and out for two people, and gear nets and pockets that can hold things that you may need to easily access during the night. It is also recommended to get a footprint for your tent. Many manufacturers custom make these specifically to fit a style of tent. Footprints will protect against wear and tear on your tent. Make sure that if you decide to get a footprint that you get the proper one for your tent. While generic ground cloths will work to protect against debris a specific one will protect against catching water that can seep under your tent and can work its way through even the tiniest seam or hole.

Once you have selected a tent it is important to set up the tent properly. It is recommended to set up your new tent at home in your yard before taking it out. This will help you get accustomed to setting it up faster should you be out and have to set up quickly if it is raining and make it easier should you have to set up in the dark. A few things when setting up your tent you should make sure you do. Make sure that the tent is completely staked out on as flat and debris free area as you can find. When putting on the rain fly you will need to make sure that all the guy lines are secured and staked out. Sometimes if necessary you can tie the guy lines off to a tree or rock. It is important the the tent is taunt. This will ensure proper ventilation and help prevent condensation build up inside the tent.

It is important to care for your tent properly. After you return from you adventure you will want to take the tent an fly out of the storage back and hang them up to dry them out. This will help prevent mildew. While you are drying it out it is also important to clean out any dirt and debris that may have made its way inside of the tent. This will protect the fabric from wear and tear.

Hopefully this will help you when considering a new tent. The most important thing you can do is optimize for fun and not have to worry about the gear.

If you would like to ask any additional questions about an existing tent that you have or one that you are considering you can leave a comment below.

-Travis (Montana Camper)